Wednesday 27 June 2012

Shopping list - 1 Bell

Cape Breton, Nova Scotia - The Cabot Trail


We finally made it to Cape Breton, the place everyone said we should visit.The Cabot trail is a 300 km scenic route named after an Italian explorer called John Cabot who reached these shores in 1497. The trail passes through communities with Acadian, Scottish and Irish roots.



Renowned for its fog we, were lucky to have quite good weather.

 


A waitress in Halifax had suggested Macleods campsite in Dunvegan on the west coast. At first glance we weren't impressed - then we found the beach.





 We enjoyed a few trails into the forest. MacIntosh Brook trail took us 5 km into the forest to see a small waterfall. Not just Bears to think about this time but Coyotes as well!




 Some people wear bells to alert the bears of their presence so not to startle them. I just dragged a stick along with my walking pole but a bell is on the shopping list!

Saturday 23 June 2012



Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island

 

We made a visit to Charlottetown on Midsummers day (already!) to watch the local aboriginal population, the MikMaq, celebrate Aboriginal day with dance and song.


It wasn't a huge event but this member of the community had great presence while he lead the singing, dancing, and drumming.



Typical town house in Charlottetown
The Governor's  House - nice pad overlooking the river!  



                                                                                                                                                                                                                               




Tuesday 19 June 2012

Joggins Fossil Cliffs

I have looked at many a fossil in museums over the years but this new museum was situated on it's fossil site.

After an informative tour of the museum telling us what we may find on the beach, (one usually finds nothing in such cases) we opted for a second tour to the beach, waiting for the tide to turn to reveal its treasures.
We were told more rocks had fallen that weekend with new discoveries. I had a childish excitement about what we would find.


This is the cliff face, eroding constantly with the tide. The rich fossil site runs approx. 15 kms along the coastline and is protected. No filling of pockets!

We saw many fossils 300.000.000 years old, from the Carboniferous age, lying on the beach in large pieces or in situ in the cliff, as in this large piece (approx. 1 metre high) of a huge weed plant.

What an experience!




So pretty…

 

From Halifax we headed to Lunenburg, a picturesque  fishing village and Unesco World Heritage site because of its old brightly painted wooden buildings. It was a walk back in time. Everything perfectly manicured.



Lunenburg Fisheries museum

The buildings had been built for their occupants and labelled accordingly.



The shoemaker's house
Typical house plaque




This said ' horror movie' to me!

The town Junior school, recently closed


The church rebuilt after a recent fire
Even the garages/sheds are cute


Kejimujik National Park. 

If we have to go to a campsite we try to find a National park. Like Australia, they seem very well run with simple, clean facilities, and at this time of year, so quiet. No black bears but an inquisitive squirrel and a turtle who wandered across the road in front of us. I had to sneak into the bushes to take the photo. No snakes to worry about on this trip!

 

Bear River

Bear River – Buildings on stilts in this very arty town. Had a coffee in the friendly cafe in the blue building overlooking the river. The local and Mikmaq (first nations) community have many arts and crafts for sale in
 the shop across the road.

Digby Neck

Digby Neck is a peninsula with two small islands accessed by ferry, Long Island and Brier island. Lobster fishing and whale watching for tourists keep the communities alive. We met two very interesting locals in Whale Cove, Long Island, who happened to be brothers and fishermen. Their relatives had been living and fishing in the cove for the last 300 years. One of the brothers feared that there livelihood was dying because of the bigger fishing boats coming in and dragging everything off the bottom of the sea bed, depleting the krill that the whales feed on, so they don’t visit as much as before. He was also sad that their history had not been recorded at all unlike the French who had settled here and kept good records.
The other, eccentric, brother had a tame, pet white tailed deer whom we met! It acted just like a dog. Stephen has the picture!

We took a walk down many steps to see this large basalt column balancing! No sneezing!


Beautiful wild Lupins are found all over the countryside in all shades of blue and pink..

Brier Island

We wild camped by the Western Lighthouse on Brier Island.





The sea mist descended during the night and we half slept through the repetitive sound of its fog horn and distant blasts from another a few seconds later, a perfect 4th higher. Part of the charm!
More wild flowers by the lighthouse, wild Dragon Mouth Orchids and carnivorous red Pitcher plants.



Dragon Mouth Orchids
Pitcher Plants

Another common wildflower







Not a buttercup but the rare Eastern Mountain Avens


Port Royal

Further along our journey we made a point of stopping at Port Royal to learn about the Acadians. The buildings were a reconstruction, beautifully presented, of an early community of Acadians in the 1600’s.The Acadians were french speaking and displaced by the English. They traded with the traditional people, the Mik maq. Beaver being prized goods.
A beaver hair felt hat


Wild roses grow all over Nova Scotia

We watched the sun go down at this woodland campsite, it seems to be a typical Canadian silhouette.

 

It is frustrating that I have to use Internet to create this blog (Stephen, being clever, can write his web pages without needing to be online and then upload). The internet access, if we get any, is often too weak, especially when we like to get off the beaten track places, so my posts and communications may be sporadic!



Saturday 9 June 2012

 Damage on boat..

We spent our last day before picking up Man sightseeing, in Halifax. Visiting Pier 21, the port of entry for many immigrants in the past and The Citadel, a star shaped fort that protected Halifax from the 1800's. This had a strong Celtic military influence. Today, Pipers, drummers and students colourfully re- enact life at the time.

Having checked out of our hotel on Friday morning, we went to Customs with paperwork. Quick and easy there, thankfully. Then we took a taxi to the dock wondering what the damage that we had been told about by the agent was like.
Some stowaway/pirate or general pain in the b... tried to break in at some point over the last few weeks. They didn't get in but tried hard, breaking a window and forcing a skylight in the roof. The queen is doing her best to protect us from the elements at the moment! Both will have to be botched for this trip as replacements are not available here.
Today, having fixed ourselves up with gas bottles and quantities of food in a great supermarket called the  'Atlantic superstore' we are in a wooded campsite waiting for the rain to stop to do the repairs.


The huge 'rigs' everywhere make our van look small!

Where to next? Let the journey begin!

Thursday 7 June 2012

So far....

We have spent the last four days putting in the miles on foot in downtown Halifax, Nova Scotia feeling very at home with the weather. Cold and wet! Its Celtic roots are felt everywhere, as we found today when we visited the Garrison to be greeted with bagpipes and kilts and the other evening in the Irish pub where a Ceilidh was in full swing with fiddlers playing around a table.

The Canadians have been particularly warm, helpful and friendly. From behind a grave stone in the local historic cemetery appeared a student with the unusual holiday job of showing tourists around the gravestones. He said not to worry about where you walk as with over 12,000 bodies buried you will always be treading on somebody!

 

Our hotel, the Waverley Inn, is a chandeliered Victorian delight. 
 Four posters are available or at least a bed high enough for a run and jump up and a rocking chair! 


Apart from being the second deepest harbour in the world after Sydney, Halifax has had an important immigration history with many europeans arriving by ship for a better life, making it the cosmopolitan country it is today.

Man, the campervan, should be available for us tomorrow if Customs are happy and then we can finally start our trip, via the supermarket.